Double Zero
Manchester Reviews |
|
|
|
Decor & Ambience |
|
A nice bright corner unit which catches the eye as you pass. It's great to see this unit full to the rafters on a dreary mid-week night, after it being sat dormant for so long. A sharp A-board outside tells passer by what's on offer, and once inside there's high exposed ceilings, plenty of seats, and a nice amount of Italiana in the form of posters, cans of San Marzano tomatoes on shelves, and all that. It's a nice space, without over egging things.
|
|
A dining room deep clean felt due to be honest. There was obvious long-term dust on the ledges behind us, on the fire extinguisher near the side door, and the place just felt a bit unloved in places despite being newish. We got vibes that the owners spend most of their time in Chorlton, overseeing their baby, rather than marshalling their Manchester branch with equal vigour.
|
|
|
|
Food & Drink |
|
Getting to it, we had very high hopes as over the years we've heard great things about Double Zero in Chorlton including 'It's way better than Rudy's', many times. Plenty of people rate Double Zero as our premier pizzeria, and such noise often comes with at least a certain degree of accuracy amidst any intrinsic hype.
We kicked off with Truffle, Mushroom, and Mozzarella Arancini (£6.50) to share and were delighted when a trio of perfectly formed spheres landed. No garnish or dressing, just a dab of tomato sauce to stop them rolling around whilst being served. They were crispy, gooey inside, and packed with flavour plus plenty of truffle scent. Enjoyable.
But we came for pizzas and really only ordered a starter to give this piece a bit more content.
Firstly, it was the undisputed classic which is the Margherita (£9.50), which is always our first order at any newly visited pizza place. It's quite simply the measuring stick of any self-respecting pizzeria. Sauce, made from San Marzano tomatoes, grown in the volcanic soil near Mt Vesuvio. It’s the only proper way to do things, Napoli style. Toppings are limited to some mozzarella, fresh basil, and a swirl of olive oil. Red, White and Green, as per the Italian flag. And that's it. The dough was very good indeed. Bags of flavour, with plenty of love going into its clearly unrushed prep. Slowly developed dough equates to flavour, and this was very good with a solid bake and lovely crumb structure, carrying just the right about of crust blister. The tomato sauce was simple yet punchy, again showcasing a clear use of quality produce. And then the mozzarella was again strong quality, in a more than generous helping. A Neapolitan pizza for me needs nothing else in terms of flavour profiles. |
|
|
|
Cl
But aside from the 'plain' OG, we also went for something a bit less traditional yet still delicious in the Miele Sizzler (£13.50). So, the same pizza as above, only with the addition of what some heathens consider to be 'actual' toppings. In this instance, some nduja, pepperoni, chorizo and the ever now popular hot honey. Delicious with a shake of dirtiness. This one is definitely a crowd pleaser.
Tiramisu (£6.50) to finish was pleasant, served in a glass that I'd usually reserve for a Negroni. I guess that since the dish is making a general resurgence, we had to order it to mentally compare with the other 7 which we've had this month alone, and generally it was tasty albeit a bit cream heavy. But that's not necessarily a negative.
|
|
However, the arancini weren’t arancini, they were croquetas. We detected no individual grains of rice at all as per the photo, but rather a paste of mushroom and rice which felt bechamel based instead than a dry risotto. They were enjoyable though and fortunately I enjoy croquetas as much as arancini, but still.
And the main event pizzas. They were good, yes, with excellent bases/crusts, and the use of top-quality produce was clear. But both had way, way too much topping with the Margherita being a classic example of that. The evidence comes when you compare the Marg on that A-Board outside to the delivered product. Too much cheese isn't a bad thing I hear you say. Say that in Napoli and you'll probably receive death threats. There just doesn’t need to be this much topping on a pizza of this style. The bases are just not designed for it.
|
|
|
|
Service |
|
Friendly, polite, and on a par with what you'd expect in such a place. I don’t want my coat taken, a detailed overview of each dish or a back story on the wine list. I just want a clean menu and my pizza to be handed over ASAP, with a smile. And it ticked all those boxes.
|
|
But; initially we arrived without a reservation at 20:20(ish) and were told that no tables were free for 45 minutes, even though we spotted half a dozen empties amidst a packed dining room. All our team have worked in decent level hospitality so can look at a dining room and within 5 seconds have worked out the state of play. Double Zero is the kind of place where the average visit lasts little more than an hour and many people were coming to the end of their meal hence a supposed 45-minute wait felt exaggerated on all counts. And did they really have 50 pending covers booked in for 9PM on a wet Thursday?
So undeterred, we left and instantly went online to check table availability whilst standing outside. Low and behold, a few were free at the next timeslot which was 20:45. We booked and went for a walk around the block/s. Everything was hunky dory when we returned, and some of the same empties were still empty, but the whole thing made you feel a little misled and unvalued. It wasn't a great start to any customer experience. |
|
|
|
Overall |
Neapolitan pizza has taken over Manchester during the last decade, but still, it's a bit of a Marmite product for some. I personally adore it and recognise the style as the true Don of pizza. It's the original and without it the global pizza landscape looks a bit different. But there's dozens of other styles which are largely more popular if you look at things on a general market scale. Many people berate the Napoli icon as being burnt on the crust, too sloppy in the middle, and not topped heavily enough. That's just the style though and exactly how the dish is meant to be, so people can't credibly say that it's wrong just because it's not to their taste.
For me, I prefer either a Napoli style or a dirty American. They are very different but I love them both in equal measures depending upon my mood/need. But here it felt like a mash up of the two styles. A Neapolitan crust with quality toppings but in the volume of atop that dirty American pizza pie, which sport a thicker and heavier crust for good reason; to balance/support the toppings. But this pillowy Neapolitan base just couldn’t hold up to all that topping, so it just ate badly and felt super sloppy with the toppings dominating everything. Things need to balance, and these didn’t, as much as they were a tasty mouthful once dissected. We left having had a nice dinner, but ultimately, feeling a bit meh.
Now we talked about this review to a friend a couple of days before its completion/publication, over a couple of bottles in Ad Hoc Wine. He said 'You need to try the Chorlton one, not the one in town'. knowingly. Perhaps a trip to Chorlton is on the cards to get a second opinion ourselves, since it's the only real way to do things.
|
Double Zero Spring Gardens Reviews |
Independent Neopolitan pizza restaurant in Spring Gardens. |
|