 REVIEW OF JUNIPER WHILST OWNED BY PAUL KITCHING: "Of the 112 Michelin starred restaurants in the UK, it's a travesty to think that there's only one in Greater Manchester. Fortunately for tourists and city centre dwellers alike, Juniper is not off the beaten track. In fact the short 18 minute trip on the tram to Altrincham and a 5 minute walk up the high street probably works out a shorter journey than the walk from many a hotel or apartment to an inferior city centre restaurant. And boy! What a journey worth making!
Head chef Paul Kitching is a gastronomic genius. Taking his influences from so many different flavours and ingredients, he is able to serve up dishes with such a unique imagination it's impossible to pigeon hole his style. It seems rather easy (or should that be lazy?) to describe Juniper as being 'French' but apart from the exhaustive choice of Burgandy's, Champagnes and many regional fine wines from across the Channel, the only nod to France appears to be Geremie, the excellent French waiter, and, on my visit, two tables of French businessmen enjoying the amazing set menu. And whilst the French would be very proud to call Juniper one of their own, there's little on the menu they could identify with. That's where Paul comes into his own - his creations are so unparalleled, no other top chef dare try copy for fear of falling far short. The 6 course 'Early Summer Herbs' menu on offer the day we visited was incredible. Add an extra 2 courses which came 'with compliments from the kitchen' and it's impossible to argue that you're not getting your £35's worth. For me, the breast of chicken with chives and coriander glaze complete with dill Mayonnaise, black olives, courgettes, chicory and parsley dusted new potatoes was worth the price of the full meal alone - it was quite simply the finest chicken I've ever tasted. As with many 'French' restaurants, and especially Michelin starred ones at that, quality rules quantity every time. This approach works perfectly with the set meals at Juniper as each dish is just about small enough to leave a little bit of room for another round of even more artistic delights from the kitchen. The journey your tastebuds are taken on constantly changes direction and the extraordinary flavours that are delivered can not be put into words. How do you describe the unexpected delights that Paul can somehow produce from a Chervil, White Chocolate and Sea Salt Ice-Cream? A very brave chef indeed who is complimented with an excellent team. Katie, his partner and Juniper's manager, takes time out with each customer over pre-prandials in the wonderful basement bar before handing you over to the excellent waiting staff who whisk you upstairs to the intimate luxurious restaurant upstairs. A special mention to Geremie, who has to be one of the best waiters in Manchester even if his Gallic sense of humour isn't at first obvious as he indentifies each region and fromagère represented in the huge assiette of French and Swiss cheese - there's no better way to upset a proud Frenchman than by asking him which one is the Cheddar. With Paul Kitching's amazingly innovative dishes, outstanding service and a wine list to match, Juniper is certainly a restaurant of a quality not matched elsewhere in the region - and that's exactly why, for the tenth year running, they are the only Michelin starred establishment around these parts!" - neil, restaurants of manchester 15/6/07 (visited on a thurs evening) |
