"The relocation
of Neil Lorenzo's Circle Club restaurant, from the famous
hidden away member's club downstairs to its new home in
Barton Arcade upstairs, the most beautiful building in Manchester
by some distance, has possibly been the most exciting new
restaurant project Manchester has seen for a long time -
one which could potentially kick start a regeneration of
traffic to the largely unknown Victorian shopping mall.
AA Rossette award
winning chef Lorenzo cooked an amazing lunch for us in the
Circle Club's temporary lunchtime restaurant back in November
2008 (see the review below), so expectations were therefore
very high of 'The Kitchen at The Circle'. On our way to
the opening of the new Bem Brasil, we thought we'd grab
a bite to eat in the newly opened Circle restaurant.
Approaching from
the Deansgate entrance to Barton Arcade at 7pm, rather than
the back street St Annes Square door, the security guards
on the door were rather off putting and we had to explain
that we were going for a meal rather than to window shop
in the closed designer stores inside the arcade. I'm guessing
some passers by would avoid any potential rejection by the
'bouncers' and walk straight past, missing the amazing grandeur
of this most specatcular of buildings. The decor of the
restaurant itself is equally as impressive. Paul Anstill's
luxurious design fills the £250,000 venue with gorgeous
leather seating whilst embracing the 1871 Victorian building's
glass and steel framed structure, probably to the delight
of English Heritage. The light bounces in, adding to the
pleasing ambience.
Our waiter, Eddie,
was very enthusiastic. Although presenting the bottle of
mineral water as if it was a vintage bottle of Château
Yquem 1787 was probably taking it a bit too far. I half
expected him to ask if we wanted to taste it before pouring.
Whlst we try to keep a low profile on the Manchester scene
to allow for a true 'mystery shopper' experience, it was
interesting to note that Jonathan Schofield was on an adjacent
table reviewing the restaurant for Manchester Confidential,
whilst Neil Sowerby was on another submitting his review
for the Evening News. Given their high profle 'do you know
who I am?' personas, pressure certainly was on for the chef
to get it right on the night.
Sadly, the food
was a real let down and a massive surprise given our previous
visits to The Circle. The Lobster Ravioli starter (£7.50)
was incredibly overpriced for what was little more than
a single raviolo in a bowl with very little taste, the L'Americaine
sauce and parsley puree was better than the main ingredent
itself. The main courses were sadly no improvement. The
Lamb Loin Cutlets (£15.50) were dumped rather than
presented on top of minted new potatoes, peas and spinach.
The cuts consisted of more fat than lamb meat and were extremely
dry. The Spring Lemon Chicken (£14.50) was even worse,
and it was interesting to hear Jonathan Schofield slagging
the same dish off to his dining partner (it would be interesting
to see if this is reflected in his review). Maybe I should
have taken Eddie's warning when I ordered it that 'it was
a very messy dish', and he wasn't wrong - if you haven't
got a degree in butchery, you can expect to make a mess
of your clothes and those of people sat around you. The
poussin was served as a whole baby chicken, its back legs
still tied up and the accompanying peas and wilted greens
hidden beneath with little presentation. Again, the quailty
of the meat wasn't great - very dry chicken outnumbered
by the quantity of bones and the remaining carcass making
the peas and greens almost impossible to get to. A side
dish would have been welcome - I'm sure enthusiastic Eddie
would have gone through hell and high water to get one for
me if I'd asked though. Whilst the lentil, tarragon and
pancetta stuffing added much needed flavour, it was almost
as big as the meat offering itself.
The restaurant
suddenly filled up with a party of 40 Red Bull sales representatives
who had been at a meeting at the excellent Circle Club venue
downstairs and the ambience changed. The acoustics from
the glass and steel building didn't lend well to the noisy
full restaurant and you had to shout to be heard. Sadly,
the previously superb waiters suddenly found themselves
diverted full time to the rowdy Red Bull reps and service
dropped off for the handful of diners who were previously
enjoying an intimate meal, which the leather seating encourages
- most requested the bill and quickly left, as did we. Fortunately
we were able to silence our still rumbling stomachs at the
Bem Brasl party.
Overall, it's
hard to give an opinion of The Kitchen at The Circle at
this stage. Neil Lorenzo is an obviously talented chef and,
presuming he was actually in the kitchen, the dishes served
up here were disappointing but are likely to improve, and
if they can get some meaty cuts from their suppliers it
would become better value for money. As it is, the decor
and service make up for a poor show and I would certainly
return to sit and admire the beautiful Barton Arcade alone.
If Lorenzo can redeliver the quality of food that earned
The Circle Club's lunchtime restaurant a 4 star review in
November, this could go on to be one of the best restaurants
in Manchester. Sadly, with so many reviewers in attendance,
he chose a bad night to get it wrong."
-
restaurants of manchester 17/4/09 (visited on a thursday
evening) |
"The Circle
Club has long held the reputation of being Manchester's
most exclusive members only club. And it's partly because
of that awkward feeling of specialdom not sitting pretty
with anyone in our office, that we were not too excited
about the Barton Arcade establishment changing their rules
to allow 'normal' members of the public to dine there for
lunch. With hindsight, this inverted snobbery had meant
we'd been missing out on possibly the best lunch in town.
AA Rossette award
chef Neil Lorenzo heads up the kitchen in this hidden-away
basement restaurant, just off St Annes Square and below
the beautiful Barton Arcade shopping mall (which will soon
become home to the restaurant). His food is exceptional
and the menu is ideal for lunch with four sandwiches, four
pasta dishes, four fish plates, four meat dishes and, erm,
three salads to choose from. The perfectly crafted desserts
are to die for.
We took advantage
of the special 2 courses for £10 offer, which was incredible
value for money for the quality of food being served. The
Pumpkin Ravioli with sage butter and toasted almonds (£5.50)
was delicious as a starter (also available as a main for
£7.50), whilst the Wild Seabass with lemon, garlic
and sun blush tomato marinade (£14.50) was perfectly
cooked and certainly a dish we'll be returning for if we're
out shopping in this part of town again.
For those who
aren't familiar with The Circle Club, the decor is unusual
- dark, rather kitsch and full of framed rock t-shirts taken
from Ringspun, the club's owner's, clothing range. Not that
you'll hear tracks from Black Sabbath, Led Zeppelin, Motorhead
and AC/DC playing in here - especially over lunch. Pity.
The service was
incredibly friendly and efficient, enhanced by the fact
the club is so small, making it even more personal. There
are plans to move the restaurant upstairs to a new location
within Barton Arcade, however for the time being, we'd recommend
that all you girls seek this hidden-away back street basement
club in between shopping for shoes and handbags, not just
for an amazing lunchtime meal, but for the most impressive
ladies toilets in Manchester (so I'm told)."
-
restaurants of manchester 24/11/08 (visited on a friday
lunch) |